Day 7

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I was up before sunrise. This is the best time of the day.

I was especially exited about today because it included some roads I have not been on before. Most notably Bosluiskloof Pass and the road toe Gamkapoort Dam. If we can get through Seweweekspoort that is. We were told the previous evening that Meiringspoort flooded in the storm the night before and was closed. Hopefully Seweweekspoort was not damaged to such an extent that we could not get through.



We had an early morning run on tar to Ladysmith and it was just what the doctor ordered. The TransAlp could really clear it's throat for a change. Early morning in the Klein Karoo - the smell of fynbos, the crisp clear air. The intermittent white line next to me seemed to become solid as I aimed for Towerkop that guards over Ladysmith in the distance. The TransAlp just ate up the distance on the R62.



A quick refuel and we headed off to Seweweekspoort. There was no indication that the road was damaged or closed

Seweweekspoort

"The road from Amalienstein in the little Karoo penetrates the Klein Swartberge through the Seven Weeks Poort, possibly one of the most awe-inspiring and spectacular of all the mountain ravines in Southern Africa.

Seven Weeks Pass winds for 17km through the mountains at a level of 600-1000m above sea-level. It crosses the stream 23 times, whilst the mountain slopes on both sides reach 1500 - 2000m.

The magnificent vertical rock folds, reaching for the skies on both sides of the road, reflect the inconceivable forces of the volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, forming the chain of Cape ripple-like mountains."

Seweweekspoort is breathtaking. Truly one of the 7 wonders of the Cape. It's impossible to capture it's magnificence on camera. It's just to big and too close.

During 1859 the authorities decided to build a gorge through the Poort. The initial work was done by a team of convicts, without the presence of a road-engineer. Progress was slow and in 1860 AF de Smidt, brother-in-law of the renowned pass-builder Thomas Bains, took charge of the operations. The road was completed in 1862. There are several stories explaining the origin of the name: it took 7 weeks for mounted troops to escort a gang of highway robbers, being banished from Barrydale, through the Poort; or it took 7 weeks for the authorities to catch a stock-thief who fled into the mountains; or it took 7 weeks for a gang of brandy smugglers to return through the Poort from Beaufort West. The most likely explanation is that the Poort was named after a missionary from Amalienstein, Reverend Zerwick. The local population could not pronounce his name and called it “Seweweekspoort”. (Source)

Barely out of Seweweekspoort you take the road through Bosluiskloof to the Gamkapoort Dam.

Bosluiskloof

"Bosluiskloof lies on the northern slopes of the Swartberg mountain range and includes the foothills of the Groot Swartberg. Besides the western entrance to the Kloof it is surrounded by State- and other nature reserves.

To the south of the reserve lies the well known Gamkaskloof (“Die Hel”), on the eastern border is the Gamkapoort Dam and to the north is the Elands- and Blouberge, partly owned by the State and held as nature reserves.

An interesting aspect is that the reserve borders on the Gamkapoort Dam that is the confluence of the Gamka-, Dwyka- en Bosluiskloof rivers. The confluence of these rivers is the historical departure point of water flowing to the Indian Ocean. When the water passes through the Great Swartberge through the Klein Karoo, the Olifants- and Buffels rivers joins in and eventually it becomes the Gouritz river, which flows into the Indian Ocean, close to Mossel Bay. "

What a revelation! I can't believe it took me so long to get here - it's a stunning pass! The road winds through Bosluiskloof Pass and eventually opens up into a Kloof (valley) that was much greener than I expected the Karoo to be. Very scenic indeed!





Soon we started seeing signs that this area did not escape the storm and the further East we rode the worse it got.





Mud and stones - what a wonderful combo.

TKC's make us invinceble!





And finally Gamkapoort Dam. Surprisingly empty for an area that, according to Fox (the "guardian of the dam ) had 40mm in less than 20 minutes two nights before.





This spot is a mere 9.5km from the low water bridge we crossed on Day 1, so we had come full circle of sorts (to get back around to that bridge from here we'd have to ride 172km).



A quick snack and we started heading back. The day was heating up!







Apart from the very basic houses at the dam itself you can also stay in these more luxurious chalets if you decided to do a one night trip to Bosluiskloof.



More of the Pass and Seweweekspoort on the way back:











Back onto the R62 and over the Huisrivier Pass to Calitzdorp:



On a recent ride to Gamkaskloof EttienneNXR told me about a beautiful gravel road along the Swartberg mountains from Calitzdorp so I worked it into this trip. I was not disappointed! Another new road, less than 100km from my home, that I have not ridden before. A beautiful road at that. Thanks Ettienne!







Lots of tight turns and scenery before it opens up into the Klein Karoo.



By now the temperatures hit extremes. Luckily it was just a short hop over Outeniqua Pass to George.



So after 4 Kloofs, 28 passes and 1650km over 7 days we rolled into George satisfied with time well spent.

Thanks Bikevettie for a great trip. Riding partners like you are always a pleasure to share the road with.

En op die einde van die dag:

"Was daar niks waarvoor ons skrik nie!"





Jose Burman, in his monumental book So high the road (1963), said:

No two Cape mountain passes are alike,
either in appearance or evolution;
their stories are human documents,
pages in the saga of a young countries development;
monuments to the vision and labour of great men.

I have ridden these Passes before. I will ride them again. Why the hell not? But there are more passes to see. I am already planning a trip to the Cederberg and also a 3 day trip with my son on his new CRF80 So stay tuned for some Ride Reports from further afield this year.


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Day 6

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After a night of heavy rain I woke to this view:



I love sleeping in the "open". Very liberating!

On the menu today: Attakwas Kloof, Gysmanshoek Pass, Tradouw's Pass and Warmwaterberg. Rural roads most of the way!


(You guessed it - clickable map. Just like all the others! )

We hit the road around 7 am. After the rains everything were fresh. You could smell the recent rain, the plants, the fresh air. I rode with the sun on my back and a song in my heart.



Just look at this: Wednesday morning and riding into a scene like that!



We shared the route with this Paw x Paw. He engaged low rage to negotiate this downhill. Obviously an experienced traveller.



Nice to meet you mate! Safe travels


(I tried to research what species this is but could not come to a conclusion. Anyone know perhaps?)

Approaching the ruins of the old village Woeska. What a brilliant day it was!



Attakwas Kloof and beyond:







Exiting the kloof you join the R327 and travel West to cross the Gourits river.





After a slow cruise taking in the scenery of Attakwaskloof these gravel highways were a welcome change. It was not dry and dusty, nor was it wet and slippery. Perfect conditions to turn it up a bit



Except for that one spot where a patch of mud really surprised us Luckily I was over it before I even realised! We did stop afterwards to "laugh" about it. TKC's make us invincible?



Another muddy spot. A 4x4 slipped and slid across just before us and it really seemed bad. We crossed without incident though. TKC's make us invincible!



Gysmans:





And descending into the Southern Cape. What a view! Something that you cannot really capture on film. That's Heidelberg in the distance.



Following gravel along the Southern slopes of the mountain I rode along a section where the shade of some trees disguised some terrible potholes (from the previous night's storm perhaps?). Luckily the line I rode missed them completely. Just after those the road turned and I came apon this moments after it happened.





Accidents happen quickly. Luckily the driver was not seriously hurt and the police arrived soon after.

Next up:





This is a tar pass with sweeping turns. The fancy took us and we really got our knees down all the way to Barrydale

Barrydale

There is a fertile valley lying between the coastal belt and the Karoo, enclosed by the Langeberg and Swartberg mountain ranges. To call this region the Little Karoo is a misnomer . Geographically, geologically and scenically it is not part of the Karoo but supports unique features of it’s own that ensure its place as a very special part of South Africa.

The region was referred to as Kannaland on a map produced in 1843, this name being derived from the genus, Kanna. This area has a higher rainfall than the Karoo, which gave rise to permanent populations of Quena or Hottentot people of the Attaqua tribe in the low lying floor of the valley and to the Bushmen / Khoisan, who inhabited the mountains.

The Attaqua had a path, parts of which are still visible today, through the Langeberg, which followed the deep, and steep, ravine known as the Tradouw Poort.

Tradouw is a Hottentot word meaning “the women’s poort or footpath”.

The Attaqua had kraals on “the other side” of the mountains, round the village now known as suurbraak, known by them as xairu, meaning beautiful.

Early visitors were Isaac Schrijver and his party, who were sent to this area in 1689 by Simon van der Stel and Lady Anne Barnard, who travelled in the Overberg and Little Karoo in 1798.

Lunch at an old favourite - The Country Pumpkin. Arrive here on two wheels and you receive a complimentary sherry and a 10% discount on your total bill The owner is a biker himself and always keen to chat to other bikers and give advise on routes etc. We even got some complimentary "Route 62" metal badges.



We did most of today's route in half a day so we had some time on our hands. It's was a good thing too because it was extremely HOT by now. Next stop Ronnie's Sex Shop (only 2km from our final stop for the day at Warmwaterberg).





As it turns out the barman is from my home town, George. He arrived here on a 175cc a month ago and heard there was an opening for a barman. As you can see he's still here The freedom of youth. I miss it sometimes.

Bikevettie decided to beat the heat:



A quick shower was welcomed but it did little to break the heat. Oh well. Barman! Another cold one please!



Before we got stuck here (which easily happens ) we rode the 2km to the Historic Bath House we'd call home for the night (website here).

Apparently there used to be an asylum here. We'd fit right in!!!



Our neighbours also had some Wings



We opted for the cold pool today.



An unexpected guest for early dinner:





This being our last night on the road we decided to dine in the restaurant to celebrate a truly GREAT trip. We had huge fun. And we still had a great day's riding left!



The view from our table:



In the distance lay Seweweekspoort and Bosluiskloof. But that is another story...

Continue to Day 7.

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