Thursday, April 29, 2010

Riding Home

.

Today I woke up refreshed and ready for the ride home. But first I rode through Graaf Reinet one last time.

Graaff-Reinet, also known as “the gem of the Karoo”, is the oldest town in the Eastern Cape and the fourth oldest town in South Africa. It started as the site for a “Trek Boer” (migrating farmer) magistracy and was named after Governor Cornelius Jacob van de Graaff and his wife Reynet. The town has nearly 300 national monuments, more than any other town in South Africa. Furthermore the town is surrounded by a nature reserve.

If the Church is the "face" of a town Graaf Reinet has to be one of the most beautiful towns in South Africa. The 1886 Dutch Reformed Church with its neo-Gothic lines strongly resembles England’s Salisbury Cathedral and it is said that the vault of the church houses a priceless collection of Cape Dutch silver.



There is so much to see around here. I can definitely confirm that I will be doing a tour of the Camdeboo area at some stage in the future.

I hit the straight roads of the N9 riding past Aberdeen towards Willowmore:



Not many photos today. Just me, the roar of the bike, the wind in my hair and the open road.

A quick refuel in Willowmore and I continue past Uniondale towards the Potjiesberg Pass where the conditions change into this:



This is not the greatest conditions to ride in. Little visibility and it was bitterly cold. Almost 100km of this along the Langkloof road.

And then just before George riding through Waboomskraal suddenly it cleared.



Waboomskraal is known for its Hop production (as seen in the left of the panorama).



Hops are used primarily as a flavoring and stability agent in beer where they impart a bitter, tangy flavor.

From here it's a short hop over the Outeniqua Pass and home!



What a nice ride.


This was my first Rallye Raid. Will I go again? But of course! But I will be better prepared and will know better what to expect.

I really enjoyed the camaraderie and lack of "brand consciousness" among the riders. The organization was excellent, as was the food and entertainment. But you also have to see the event for what it is. It's a more "hardcore" event and my idea of riding the passes and taking pictures was way off the mark. Within the first couple of km's I was the last rider with the sweeper already hurrying me up. On this event you will be riding with a lot of other bikes through some breath taking scenery. But it is a ride, not a leisurely tour. Keep that in mind.

It was COLD. As were all the Rallye Raid's before this one. Invest in a good sleeping bag! The one I had did the trick beautifully. The link in the report (Day 3) to the sleeping bag's specs has the price of the sleeping bag pegged at R894.00. Here's a tip: Phone Hein Alberts at Tuinroete Agri at 044 6011 213 and buy yours at approx. R520.00 VAT included! One of the best gear buys I have ever made.

Thanks to all the guys that made this ride memorable. You guys are aces!






.

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Riding through the Eastern Cape Karoo

.

We got up a bit later today as the energy levels were not what they were supposed to be. Continuous late nights take their toll I guess.

A quick stop in Elliott to say goodbye to Glen and we were on our way, heading West.



Tar roads unfortunately but still scenic, this being the Eastern Cape.



Riding past the Otto du Plessis Pass and Barkers Neck Pass turn-offs were heartbreaking, but what can you do? I'll just have to come back.

We ride through Ida...



... and past Indwe to Dordrecht.

The picturesque little town of Dordrecht was established in 1856 as a Dutch Reformed parish and named after the town of the same name in the Netherlands. During the Anglo-Boer War, burghers from the Free State annexed the town and declared it part of the Free State. However, after the war it was reintegrated into the Eastern Cape.

I have been wanting to see this town since my friend Eisbein rode through here a couple of years ago.

Rural towns like these all have beautiful churches and the steeple is often the first thing you see as you approach a town. The Church can also be an indication of whether the town will be interesting and have a rich history. You could almost say that the church is the "face" of the town. The first impression. The thing that get's photographed.

Dordrecht makes a good first impression.





The Burgher Statue in front of the town’s Dutch Reformed Church is a monument to the Boer victims and casualties of the Anglo-Boer War. The inscription reads:

"Ter gedagtenis aan die Burgers wat die duurste offer op die altaar van die vaderland gelĂȘ het. - Die Tweede Vryheidsoorlog 1899-1902"

I am sad that we don't have more time to spend in these interesting towns, but we refuel and head out. Scenery on the way to Molteno:


(Photo by Gryph)



Molteno has some interesting churches of it's own:







Still heading West away from the Drakensberg the landscapes start leveling out. Gryph enjoying the ride:



Having had enough of the tar roads we hit the first gravel on the way to Hofmeyr.




(Photo by Gryph)



And all of a sudden we come across this:


Our maps did not indicate that there are a pass here, but we're so glad there are! Score!!!

The Grootdoornhoek Pass runs over the Bamboes Mountain Range in the Karoo.



This beautiful mountain range begins in Molteno and forms part of the Drakensberg escarpment, which splits into the separate ranges of Stormberg, Bamboes, Suurberg, Nieuveld and Komsberg as it enters the Eastern Cape.



This surprise made my day.



Having done some research on this pass after my trip I came across this:



This is a waterfall on the pass. We did not see it but I'll be sure to look for it if I pass here again. The photo is from this website.

Being back on gravel the frequency of photos also increase significantly.



Scenery towards Hofmeyr:



And there lies the pretty little town of Hofmeyr in the shadow of the Bamboes Mountain Range in the Karoo.



Originally called Maraisburg, this town was established in 1873 and renamed after Jan Hofmeyr, a linguist and champion of the Afrikaans language.

The face of Hofmeyr:



This church is not as impressive as some of the churches in other towns, but it's pulpit has an interesting story. Before it was installed the pulpit was used at the christening of Paul Kruger, the last president of the Transvaal Republic. Wow! Now there is something to boast about!

It was lunch by now so we stopped at the Karoobos Farm Stall for some boerekos.





Hofmeyr is also closely tied to the discovery of the Hofmeyr Skull, a 36 000 year-old homo sapien skull found in a dry channel bed of the Vlekpoort river, just outside Hofmeyr. The skull supported the hypothesis that humans evolved in Africa before 200 000 years ago.

With full tummies we head further West into the Karoo:



The landscape seems flat, but surprises you every so often with something like this:



This is the Grootbrak River. No, not the one near George, the one near Hofmeyr.



I certainly didn't expect to find a river of this size here. The river runs into the Grassridge Dam.

More Karoo gravel highways. You don't really lose time travelling by gravel in the Karoo as the gravel roads generally are in good nick.



The scenery also varies as you ride along.



Eventually we link up to the tarred R61 between Graaff-Reinet and Cradock and travel over the Wapadsberg Pass (English: Wagon Tracks Mountain).



Wapadsberg Pass links up with the N9 and takes us to Graaff-Reinet via Naudesberg Pass:



In-ride perspective:



It was late afternoon by now and George was still 350km away. We were well and truly fatigued and a phone call revealed that it was raining in the Southern Cape. Decision time. Do we continue or do we sleep over? Continuing to George would mean riding fatigued in the dark and in rain, risks unnecessary to take. Gryph really REALLY wanted to sleep in his own bed that night though. Just then Bentap, who were in our group to Wartrail (Africa Twin), stopped next to us. You guys are sleeping over at my place tonight! This offer could not have come at a more opportune time!

Gryph had other ideas though. He wanted his own bed and that was that. It's been a long trip and he wanted to get home. So he decided to continue alone into the night despite the offer of free lodging - a decision that had me really worried.

Bentap also invited Hamster over for dinner and we had a nice evening chatting about the trip to Wartrail.

Real Camdeboo hospitality:



Our worries were put to rest when Gryph phoned later. He rode in the dark, in rain and in heavy mist but he made it home safely. .
And tonight I did get my early night.







Source: Eastern Cape

.