Boesmans drif

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The road through the poort is 21 km long and crosses the Groot River 25 times. The causeways have interesting names such as Skelmdrif, Perskeboomdrif, Ontploffingsdrif and Laastedrif (you can get a brochure at the tourism bureau in De Rust for the stories behind the names). As far as this report is concerned though Boesmansdrif is of interest.





Boesmansdrif was named after the San (Bushmen) who lived in a deep cleft in the rocks above the drift. Their ancient home is overgrown now but their artifacts were still being picked up as late as 1965.

The pool at Boesmansdrif:



I have not heard any reports of sightings here, but the name and reports of the cave caught my interest. How would they know Bushmen stayed in the cave? Rock Art of course! Now there are 25 known sights of rock art depicting the Watermeid, but the location of these places are not public knowledge as they are protected. If I was to find some of these paintings a cave in Meiringspoort was a pretty good bet.

Unfortunately this is the only thing resembling a cave I could find:



It was very small and basically at water level so no Bushmen would have stayed there. According to reports the cave was higher and overgrown which must be the case because I could not find it anywhere.



Riding out towards De Rust I met Jan Arries:



Jan Arries was collecting wood for the night but he was more than happy to take time out to talk to me. He was born in De Rust and also knows all about the Watermeid. He has two friends that were caught and drowned by the Watermeid, one at the pool in Meiringspoort and one at the Stompdrif dam.

Have you seen the Watermeid yourself? "No I have not and nor do I wish too."

How do you know that your friends were drowned by the Watermeid? "Well, both could swim, but they disappeared beneath the water and didn't resurface. Their bodies had to be recovered by police divers."

What does the Watermeid look like? "She has beautiful long black hair, blue eyes, pink cheeks and a perfect white skin without blemish. She is a very beautiful woman who can change her body between that of a human and a fish."

This is certainly the first time I've heard that she can alternate between human and fish forms, but I guess with these hearsay testimonies there's bound to be variation. Hopefully I'll have the chance to talk to some-one who's had a firsthand sighting sometime soon.


After hearing about the incident at Stompdrifdam I of course just had to go and have a look.



En route I saw this Feather Palace. "Feather Palaces" were famously opulent dwellings rich ostrich farmers built during the 2nd Ostrich Boom. Unfortunately the garden only allowed for a glimpse here and there and this is the best photo I could get.



Stompdrift dam:


(Google Earth placemark here)

Stompdrift Dam is a dam on the Olifants River and was established in 1965. It's the biggest dam in the Klein Karoo and boasts a 25km “coastline” that cuts into the foothills of the Great Swartberg Mountain Range. It's also a popular carp fishing spot, but as you can see it's very empty at the moment.

The dam wall gives a better idea of how big it really is:



I have not had a sighting yet, but it has become clear that the Watermeid is alive and well in the stories and heart of the community. You can literally stop next to a stranger next to the road and each has heard about / has a story to tell about the Watermeid.

I needed to talk to the experts, the scientists, those with firsthand sightings and at least see some Rock Art. That will be my next step...







Sources: gomag; ioltravel

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Meiringspoort

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I went solo for this portion of the search. It's good to have some solo helmet time every once in a while. I seem to like it more and more.

We had some snow in the region recently. This is the view of the Swartberg mountains as seen from just outside De Rust:



And the scenic ride into Meiringspoort - for solo helmet time you can hardly have a better road than this.



During my research I came across this little story about Meiringspoort. It's in Afrikaans (I appologise to the international readers) but I just have to share it with the South African readers.


Geskiedenis boeke vertel vir ons hoe die pad deur Meiringspoort gemaak is, maar hoe is Meiringspoort gemaak?


Hoe Meiringspoort gemaak is:
Antoinette Pienaar

EPORIA is 'n anderste meermin, maar soveel meer misterieus en eksoties as haar susters in die oseaan. Sy woon nie op die seebodem nie, maar in 'n poel in die Klein Karoo, die land van ruimte.

Eporia, half-vrou, half-vis, word deur die diere van die veld gekroon as die koningin van hul wêreld en Absolom die skaapwagter word haar vriend.

Dit is 'n wêreld waar almal in harmonie saamleef en Gamka, die laaste Kaapse leeu, se statige treë die respek afdwing wat hy as koning van die diereryk verdien.

Maar dan, op 'n dag, kom die jagters en moor die inwoners van die Klein Karoo een vir een uit. Selfs Gamka val dood neer met 'n bulderende slag.

Eporia sien dit alles en word oorweldig deur 'n siedende woede. Sy roep al die waters van die heelal bymekaar en neem verwoestend wraak. Met die water word die aarde en klip vervorm en só word Meiringspoort gemaak.   *Bron*


I stopped at the rest stop and armed with my camera I headed up to the waterfall. The walk along the path into the kranz which was constructed in the 1920's so that the Prince of Wales, later the Duke of Windsor, could walk up to see the bottomless pool where the mermaid dwells.

The scene as I approached - the water falls into a deep pool before flowing into secondary shallower pools and eventually into the river.





The waterfall is 60m high and you're so close to it that it's impossible to fit it into one photo.



The pool at the bottom has lured a few people to their deaths. Legend has it that the pool is bottomless, but it proved to be a myth when, in 1987, a team of divers established the depth at 9m.



In the lower pools you can see that the water is crystal clear and clean. It's also cold and delicious!



The rocks it's been flowing over for centuries is polished smooth as soap.



There have been several drownings at this spot over the years and a lot of those have been attributed to the Watermeid. It has similarities to the other spots in that it is very deep and that there have been drownings here, but this spot has no reeds. And once again I had no sighting. Google Earth placemark here.

Meet Katrina Koorts:



Meiringspoort has several rest stops and these are manned 24/7. Katrina and one other works here today, but she's not merely hanging around. She is very helpful and knowledgeable about this area. She knows about the history, the depth of he pool and of course the whole Watermeid story of 1996. Does she believe the Watermeid exists? "No." Why not? "Because there are no such things as mermaids!"

Maybe, when you have to work here at night, it's better not to believe...






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Quicky in the Klein Karoo

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Warm fire, cold drinks and he great Karoo skies. What can be better than this?

We're camping at De Hoek in the Swartberg Mountains although we didn't know that we'd be here a few hours back. How's that for an impromptu ride?



Rewind to lunch, Friday 25 June.

Wave Rider pops in for a visit. He's had a horrible week (I can relate) and needs to get away to clear his head. Just ride somewhere, go sit under the Karoo skies and forget about everything. What a wonderful prospect, but it's kinda short notice. I can be ready to leave in an hour!

A few phone calls are made, panniers and tents loaded and before we knew it we're making a last stop in Oudtshoorn for tonight's provisions. Our little group has grown to four with Dusty joining us a little bit later.

Wave Rider - Suzuki V-strom
Cassie - Kawasaki KLX250
Grysalp - Honda XL500
and myself on the trusty TransAlp:



A very diverse group of bikes - just the way we like it! Grysalp bought that XL500 new in 1980. In February this year it was 30 years old and still going strong. Doesn't even use a drop of oil. And check out that 23" front wheel!

Camp set up and the woes of the week forgotten. We are truly fortunate to be able to break away like this.



And the woes of the week were truly forgotten. There were cheers and laughter all over - jokes, stories, even some amateur stargazing. The Karoo sky is a sight to behold!



Early morning campsite scenes:



Beautiful day, but we knew that a cold front would move in before nightfall, so we'd have to make the most of the day.



We had to head back home today, but we decided to do it the "Long Way Round". Such a cliche, but so much better than heading straight home.

So the bikes were packed and the plans were set. In stead of heading South back to George we'd head North, over Swartberg Pass, to Prins Albert and from there head East to Klaarstroom, South to De Rust and then back to George via Dysselsdorp and Paarde Poort. Nice one day outride.

(We also stopped at another undisclosed location not part of this report - all about that stop will be revealed later in the Watermeid report. )



De Hoek is situated close to the bottom of Swartberg Pass so the ride was scenic right from the start:

While here this black Yamaha Tenere came past with rider and pillion. Very nice bike. It also had a Wild Dog sticker on the pannier - wonder who it was?



Some more scenery a little higher up:





Here we met Jakkals and a friend who was returning from "The Hell". Seems like we weren't the only ones who wanted to get away that Friday evening.



The view from the top looking South:



Grysalp enjoying the view looking North:



And he wasn't the only one!



Cassie enjoying the ride:



Scenery towards Prins Albert - no doubt the most beautiful part of Swartberg Pass. Look at those twisties winding down into the Great Karoo:





Some scenes around Prins Albert:



"A place of new beginnings"



And of course lunch at the Hotel!



"Al fresco" under the veranda:



After lunch we head East to Klaarstroom. Prince Albert Valley:



Riding up Kredouw Pass we noticed this:



This seems to be the "old" pass. We'll definitely come back sometime to come ride this!



And then the magnificent Meiringspoort:



Some in-ride shots (which took some doing with the winter gloves!).





And finally gravel again through the Klein Karoo. Riding past Dysselsdorp:



We could already see (and feel!) the cold front moving in. Paardepoort:



Approaching Montagu Pass. No guesses what we'll find on the other side.



The Cold Front has arrived!



Riding down Montagu Pass in the rain. Even a cold day on the bike is better than not being on the bike.





Just a quick ride to clear the head. Thanks Wave Rider, it was a great idea!